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About Beds - Buyer's Guide

• Mattress Types

• Divan Storage Options

• Bed Sizes

At bedwarehouse.com we are able to offer you a vast selection of bed styles from traditional divan beds, upholstered beds, which are available in a variety of fabrics including leather, and bedsteads in metal and/or wood. Today’s bedsteads are now lighter and easier to assemble or move. Divan bases have various options, they may be sprung, none sprung and with or without drawers. On bedsteads the mattress support is normally metal bars or wooden slats, or, on more expensive quality bedsteads, sprung beech slats to give the mattress a softer feel.

Choosing the right Bed for You:
A lot of people worry about changing their beds, for fear their new bed will end up more uncomfortable than the one they've got now. Here is a simple guide to help you make the right choice:-
Decide your priorities and concerns in advance. For example, is it: price, storage, access to the bedroom, turning the mattress, getting in and out of bed, overall size or shape, a health issue, style etc.
Buy for correct support and comfort for your weight and build - not just firmness.
Don't forget a bed is a mattress and a base working together - don't consider them in isolation.
Think big - larger beds are more comfortable. A 4'6" double bed offers 2'3" per person - less than a child's cot.
Think about storage – Storage need not affect the comfort or quality of the bed. Storage divans do cost a little more, but bear in mind that four drawers on a divan set will provide as much space as a chest of drawers.
Make sure you've checked your measurements and that the bed will fit into the room intended
A good bed should be a priority so spend as much as you can afford; after all most of us spend around a third of our lives in bed, so it's worth spending a little extra now for years of extra comfort. As a guideline we recommend that most beds be replaced after 8 to 10 years

A Typical Mattress:
The mattress is the most vital single component of a bed for comfort. Modern technology has changed the mattress beyond recognition from its earliest predecessors of only 20 years ago. Using high tensile steel in springs, topped with layers of traditional felt, wool, cotton and more modern fillings of foam, latex, polyester padding, manufacturers can now combine all or some of these materials to give you different 'feels'. In fact the latest trends are towards no springs and different density layers of high resilient foams in latex or memory foam.

Filling materials

There are many different types of materials used for upholstering mattresses. Fillings are chosen for their resilience, springiness, durability, flexibility and ability to absorb body moisture. Although the number and quantity of fillings – especially in sprung mattresses vary enormously there are basically three key layers or functions: the initial or primary layer: the intermediate layer: and the top layer.

Sprung mattresses:

It’s the spring that provides the ‘core’ support in most mattresses. Most spring types can be grouped into three main categories: open, continuous or pocket.

Open Springs:

The most widely used option, from budget through to mid-price range beds, also known as the Bonnell spring. Rows of hour-glass shaped springs are connected top and bottom by a spiral wire, known as the helical wire. The edge of the unit is usually strengthened by a retaining flat or round rod edge. Most units are heat treated or tempered for improved tensile strength and durability. They generally come in a range of support options from a very firm 12.5 to very soft 15 gauge.

Continuous Springs:

Please Note: These types have been included in the Coil Spring Section of this Web Site.

Instead of a unit of individual, linked springs, the continuous spring unit is made from a single length of wire ‘knitted’ into a series of interwoven springs which usually run up and down the bed and are linked vertically rather than horizontally. Generally speaking the gauge of wires used is softer and the size of the ‘coils’ smaller, giving a higher spring count and a more responsive feel. Many continuous spring constructions are marketed under specific brand names e.g. The Miracoil Spring System from Silentnight Beds – these are generally in the mid to upper price bands. Many are zoned to cater for the concentration of body weight at the hips and shoulders.  For ease of searching you'll find we've put those beds with continuous springing in the Coil Springs Section of this Web site.

Pocket springs are rows of smaller diameter, light weight springs of varying shapes and sizes, each housed separately in a fabric pocket which slightly compresses the spring and imparts springiness.

Pocket springs allow for more flexible response to compression, giving a higher degree of individual body support both in terms of contouring the body shape and for couples sharing a bed.

As with all spring units, there are varying support options and many qualities and are generally to be found in mid to upper price bands. The most luxurious are often hand-finished products employing the most exclusive materials.

Pocket Springs:

(Please note that the spring count throughout this site refers to the number of springs in the 5'0" mattress size unless otherwise stated)

Foam mattresses:

Most foam mattresses are made from layers of different densities of material which impart the required degree of comfort and support. Better quality mattresses do not need to be turned regularly. All foams used in beds today must be combustion modified to meet stringent fire safety regulations. There are three main types of foam in use:

• Polyurethane foams, with performance and price varying according to density and quality.

• Latex, derived from the rubber tree, a premium quality material, known for its resilient feel and durability and is available in a range of comfort options. The latest mattresses are anti-microbial and offer benefits to many allergy sufferers.

• Memory foam/Visco-elastic foam. A premium quality, high density foam which is both energy-absorbing and temperature sensitive, with good pressure relieving features. The material forms itself to the shape of any object/weight applied, recovering to its original state when the weight is removed.

Some beds have Extra features: (we use the symbols below so that you can recognise  them)

Ticking/Cover

Ticking is the old name for the tightly woven fabric used to contain the mattress fillings. Best quality tickings are made from woven cloth, which may be made from natural, soft, glossy viscose or matt cottons, to cheaper man-made polypropylene and polyesters.  Knitted tickings are now a popular choice with a distinctly European contemporary feel to them. At the budget end of the market are stitchbonds, a series of compact fibres stitched together; and thermal bonds, where fibres are joined by a combination of heat and pressure. Cheaper knits, usually stretchy and featuring more vibrant colours and patterns are also available.

Finishing:

There are various methods of finishing the mattress surface, to ensure the ticking and fillings are held together securely and won’t move in use.

Deep Quilt: This creates a smooth, firm, flat finish.

Micro Quilted:  A distinctive raised pattern effect is created by stitching ticking to backing material. Puffier, ‘high-loft’ versions can be created by varying the type and quality of the fillings and backing material.

Tufting:  Tufting involves passing a series of tapes right through the mattress at regular intervals. These are secured by tags or washer made of plastic, felt or wool, depending on the quality. Tufting puts the mattress under tension but prevent the loose fillings from being dislodged.

Mattress sides:

There are two ways to finish mattress sides. Traditional hand stitching which is most commonly used on top quality pocket sprung mattresses, – this involves passing a needle and thread right through the fillings to the horizontal surfaces of the mattress for additional strength and stability, and non hand side stitching, which provides a similar visual effect and benefits but the panel sides have only been attached to the spring, not right through the filling. Some quilted panels are designed to look like side stitching.

Sprung mattresses:

It’s the spring that provides the ‘core’ support in most mattresses. Most spring types can be grouped into three main categories: open, continuous or pocket.

Divans:
A divan bed is simply a mattress with a base covered usually in the same fabric or "ticking" as the mattress

There are four main types of divan:

• Sprung edge divans feature a complete sprung unit mounted on a wooden or metal frame. Considered the most luxurious option, they provide even support across the whole mattress, with no hard edges. The sprung base acts as a giant shock absorber, increasing the mattress’s durability.
• Solid or platform top divans consist of a wooden side frame combined with a rigid unsprung panel which usually results in a firmer feel to the mattress.
• Flexible slats are usually made from laminated wood and mounted on a frame. Many systems allow the user to adjust the tension of the slats to create zoned support in the hip and shoulder areas.
• Firm edge divans feature a smaller number of larger, heavy duty springs within a wooded sided frame. Although good for edge of bed rigidity, firm edge divans are not now very commonly seen.

• Drawers can be located in one or both sides and/or foot end of the divan. On some the head end drawers are smaller so they can be opened without having to move the bed away from fitted units or bedside tables.  These smaller drawers are known as 'continental' drawers or 'conti' for short

• Some divans offer access to the interior space via sliding doors on one side or at the foot of the divan. These are known as 'slidestores'.

• Ottoman style divans have a shallow platform top. Access can be gained to the storage compartment by lifting the platform top, which is hinged to the rest of the base.

Bedcare

Proper care will keep your bed in good condition. Always read and retain the manufacturers care instructions. The following tips will help you to get the best out of your bed during its natural life.

• Use a washable, protective cover to protect the mattress (and pillows) from stains.

• Barrier fabrics for allergy sufferers are also a good idea.

• In the mornings, throw back the bed clothes and leave the bed to air for 20 minutes to allow body moisture to evaporate.

• Turning your mattress over from side and side and end to end every few months (every week for the first three months) helps upholstery fillings to settle down more evenly. Note: Some luxurious mattresses, with much thicker layers of fillings designed to mould themselves to the contours of your body, may retain signs of these impressions, despite turning. Traditionally all mattresses needed to be swivelled from top to bottom and, also, turned over. This was to equalize wear areas and give the more traditional fillings a chance to recover their former shape. Most spring interior mattresses still require this and always follow each individual manufacturer's advice on their particular mattresses. However, now there is a new generation of mattresses, particularly those made with an interior spring unit and topped with a layer or layers of foam, latex or memory foam, which do not require 'turning over'. These mattresses have one sleep surface only. The advantage of this being that you no longer do you need to turn over mattress, which can be a particularly difficult task for the elderly.

• Don’t make a habit of sitting on the edge of the bed and don’t let the kids bounce on it.

• Don’t roll up or squash a mattress to store or transport it - this can cause permanent damage.

• Handles are designed to help you position a mattress on its base - do not use them to support the full weight of the mattress - they may pull out and damage the fabric.

• Don’t leave polythene wrappings on a new mattress - dampness, mildew and rotting could all result from a build-up of condensation.

• Vacuum your mattress and base from time to time to remove fluff and dust. This should be carefully done so as not to dislodge fillings or damage tufts. Open windows while vacuuming -especially if there is an asthma sufferer in the house.

• When tackling stains, use mild detergent and warm or cold water. Never over soak a mattress or base.

• Putting a new mattress on a base for which it was not intended, a new mattress on an old base or a board between the mattress and base can impede comfort and reduce the useful life of the mattress - as well as affecting any guarantees or warranties.

Out with the Old: Once you’ve bought yourself a new bed don’t give your old bed to the children, relatives, guests or neighbours. If it wasn’t good enough for you, it’s not good enough for anyone else, either. In fact, it’s a veritable health hazard - get rid of it.

I want to buy a pocket spring mattress but the ones I have seen seem lumpy.
Luxury, pocket spring beds don’t have flat surfaces – they mould themselves to body shape and the indentation remains even if you turn the bed regularly (which is very important with this type of bed)

Should I buy a hard bed to ease my aches and pains?
What you need is a new bed which offers the right support for your spine (not necessarily hard at all!)

How can I get the most from my mattress?
Most mattresses need regularly turning to ensure even wear and tear. However, there are new options which only need swivelling around from time to time.

Will a bedstead provide a quality night’s sleep?
People buy bedsteads for their looks but they are often paired with very basic mattresses. Fortunately the choice is growing enormously and nowadays you don’t have to sacrifice comfort for looks. You can get pocket spring mattresses made for use with slats and you can even get a fully sprung edge bed base for bedsteads.

When should I buy a new bed?
Don’t wait until your bed is uncomfortable or damaged before replacing it by which time sleep quality could be quite severely affected - use other triggers. Even a good quality bed will only last around 10 years.

There are so many bed sizes – how big should I go?
People don’t buy large enough beds. 75% of all double beds are still the standard 4ft 6in/135cm wide double. Space in modern homes is often the reason for this, however if at all possible you should upgrade to at least a 5ft/150cm king size bed. Upgrading to this size or bigger, whilst taking up very little extra bedroom space, goes a long way towards you achieving a good a night’s sleep; with less disturbance from your sleeping partner.

n Britain, the accepted sizes for mattresses throughout the industry are set out as in the table below. These are the sizes for mattresses or traditional divan bases. Remember that if you decide on a bedstead, the overall sizes of the bedstead will be slightly larger to accommodate the mattress. This is to allow for the thickness of the bedstead legs and frame. As a general guide add on 5cms all round - this is 10cms in overall length of the mattress and 10cms in overall width of the mattress. However remember that 10cms is only a guide, as the thickness of frames varies.

However there are no uniform or universal standards of sizes or names for bed sizes that have to be used in law: the terms that are used are descriptive and there is no guarantee that the term King, for example, will be applied to exactly the same size product by different manufacturers. Metric sizes are not exactly the same as imperial sizes, either.  The above list shows the most common sizes available.